Telegraph Avenue

I've started reading Michael Chabon's novel "Telegraph Avenue."  He's a popular writer and his new books are always anticipated, but I find his dense style and complicated plots a very slow go. I bought this one only because it takes place in Berkeley. The book setting is a vinyl record store in the 1990's, but the story reminds me of the mid-70's when I lived in a bungalow behind a grocery store parking lot on Telegraph Avenue.

Back then, the side streets off Telegraph were lined with wood-shingled firetraps (the one next to us burnt dramatically to the ground one night while we sat on the curb.) Ours was more like a outbuilding tucked away on an overgrown lot behind another house. Most of these houses were shared by group families, hippies and students. The rent became progressively more expensive as you moved up the city blocks to the east hills away from the University.  But even the semi-employed could afford to share a cottage down where the action was on The Ave. We didn't know what having money was like, and so had a pretty good time without it.

If it hasn't burned down, the bungalow would look something like this one from an Oakland real estate page, worth a half million now.

A few steps from the house and you were instantly adrift in the 24-hour circus of Telegraph Avenue. Some of the old 1960's Berkeley protest landmarks are still there, mostly as tourist attractions, and young people can read the Yelp reviews.

A few years ago, on a drive back to the Oakland Airport from Napa, I made John take a detour through Berkeley.  And once was enough to see my old stomping ground. Things looked the same, but different.  Was it always so rough and dirty? Were the people always so-- well, weird? Did Berkeley change that much, or did I?

I Goggled "telegraph avenue vintage images" to find these pictures of the places I remember. If that doesn't make a person feel old, nothing will. I had my first cappuccino at the Mediterraneum, when espresso was a special thing.

The coffee house was ground zero of Berkeley radicalism in the 60's, but it already felt past its prime by 1975.  A famous scene from The Graduate was filmed there. 

Shakespeare and Co was the place to loiter and read for free, because most of us couldn't afford books.


We went to Top Dog late at night to eat grilled hot dogs after doing things I can't write about on the blog.  It's still there, exactly the same but with a TripAdvisor review.

And People's Park was just that-- a well-trodden place for anyone to hang out on the grubby grass.

To make a long story short, I'm not sure I'll make it through the new Chabon novel, but it was worth the price for a little trip down memory lane.